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Post by Rialle on Dec 2, 2018 16:23:56 GMT -5
Ive seven people successfully use ladybugs to get rid of other bugs for both indoor and outdoor gardens.
But then you’re left with ladybugs. Not sure what climate you’re in now if it would be safe to let them out into the world after they’re done. And make sure your vacuum can handle any dead ones. They will also find any bugs that might have wandered to other plants.
I’m sure there are other solutions but this one is fresh in my mind.
Did you bring in any outside soil? Or outside plants?
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Shawn
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Post by Shawn on Dec 2, 2018 17:19:06 GMT -5
Sorry, I am of no help. I have never had that problem.
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Shawn
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Post by Shawn on Dec 2, 2018 17:24:16 GMT -5
My plants are covered in white flies! They are over 200 days so I don’t mind terminating them but are there other solutions? How can I protect my pepper plant which is right next to the tomatoes?
I did a little digging and here are a few things I found:
Last yet long:
Whiteflies, also known as aleyrodidae, are soft-bodied, winged insects closely related to aphids and mealybugs. They can be found in most any region, but they are so tiny that they are usually camouflaged.
They can be as small as 1/12 of an inch, somewhat triangular in shape, and are often found in clusters on the undersides of leaves. They are active during the daytime, so they are easier to spot than some other nocturnal pests. Whiteflies are capable of overwintering and reproducing throughout the year in warmer climates.
One common species of whitefly is the silverleaf whitefly, which is slightly smaller and more yellow than other whiteflies. Silverleaf whiteflies are especially common in southeastern states. All species of whiteflies affect a wide variety of plants.
You’ll often see whiteflies in mid- to late-summer when it gets warm; they are also a common pest in greenhouses.
Whiteflies tend to suck on ornamentals and warm-weather vegetable plants, including tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, and okra. They also like sweet potatoes and plants from the cabbage family.
How to Identify Whiteflies on Plants
Whiteflies suck plant juices and, in turn, produce a sticky substance known as honeydew. Honeydew left on its own can cause fungal diseases to form on leaves.
Due to whitefly feeding, plants will quickly become extremely weak and may be unable to carry out photosynthesis. Leaves will wilt, turn pale or yellow, and growth will be stunted.
Honeydew is a sign that the whiteflies have been feeding for several days. You might also see ants, which are attracted to the honeydew.
Check undersides of leaves around the veins for white insects, even if they aren’t visible, and feel leaf surfaces for honeydew. If the whiteflies are feeding, they’ll suddenly all fly off the leaves in a swarm, so it’s very obvious.
You may also find eggs laid on the undersides of leaves. This is the beginning of a new generation! When the eggs hatch, the larvae will look like teeny white ovals without legs; they don’t move but they immediately start sucking the plant juice. This is why gardeners miss the whiteflies until it’s too late. Adult females can produce up to 400 eggs, which can hatch in between one week and a month. They are usually laid in a circular pattern. Eggs are pale yellow when newly laid and brown when about to hatch.
How to Get Rid of Whiteflies
To control whiteflies, there are various solutions and traps that you can use. The biggest tip is: start early! In the mornings and evenings, as you wander the garden, check the back of the leaves for eggs or notice when little bugs “fly away” as you approach your plants.
Always start with blasting whiteflies (and aphids and many insects) with your watering hose. This will cause them to scatter. Then, spray your leaves with insecticidal soap. Coat them; be sure to spray the undersides of leaves.Only spray plants when temperatures are cooler—such as late in the day, as heat may cause an adverse reaction in your plant. Follow up 2 or 3 times.
According to the National Gardening Association, this homemade mixture should be helpful to control and deter whiteflies: Use a mixture of dishwashing liquid, such as Palmolive with lemon, and water. A good squirt of soap to a gallon of water should work. As mentioned above, only spray in cooler temperatures; early in the morning or late in the day is best. The NGA mixture is a pretty benign combination, and whiteflies are nearly impossible to get rid of, so it’s best to try more preventative tactics, as mentioned below.
If all else fails and your whitefly population is persistent, you can use a handheld vacuum every few days to remove them from your plants. This gets rid of both nymphs and larvae.
How to Prevent Whiteflies
Keeping natural predators around will prevent whiteflies from ever exploding in population. Ladybugs, spiders, lacewing larvae, and dragonflies are a few of many beneficial insects that can control a whitefly population. Hummingbirds are another natural predator.
Try creating a habitat that will attract dragonflies and damselflies (which also helpfully eat mosquitoes) or beautiful hummingbirds.
When it comes to whiteflies, avoid chemical insecticides; they’re usually resistant and all you end up doing is killing the beneficial insects—their natural predators—and the insects which pollinate the garden for a better harvest!
Mulch early in the season with aluminum reflective mulch, especially when it comes to tomatoes and peppers. The reflective mulch makes it challenging for whiteflies to find their host plants.
Set out yellow index cards coated with petroleum jelly to monitor whiteflies, especially when it comes to tomatoes, peppers, sweet potatoes, or cabbage crops. A half-and-half mixture of petroleum jelly and dishwashing detergent, spread over small boards painted bright yellow, is sticky enough to catch little whiteflies, too. To whiteflies, the color yellow looks like a mass of new foliage. The bugs are attracted to the cards, get stuck in the jelly, and die.
Plants Affected
Tomatoes
Bell Peppers
Eggplants
Okra
Sweet Potatoes
Cabbage
Source: Almanac
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Post by cheddachasa on Dec 2, 2018 19:49:07 GMT -5
Thanks for all of your suggestions. After attempting to vacuum the flies away, lol, I realized it was a serious infestation so I terminated the plants. The flies don’t appear to have bothered my pepper plant but I will place some traps around it just in case.
The plant had a great run of 223 days and produced lots of tomatoes so I still consider it to be a success. Bummed that I had to toss about 30 new tomatoes though.
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Shawn
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Post by Shawn on Dec 3, 2018 3:51:00 GMT -5
Yes you did have a wonderful long run of tomatoes. I say that alone was success.
What are you planning to grow next?
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Post by cheddachasa on Dec 3, 2018 9:45:49 GMT -5
Yes you did have a wonderful long run of tomatoes. I say that alone was success.
What are you planning to grow next?
That is a very good question. I think I will wait a bit and see if these flies attack my pepper plant. I saw a couple of them on the leaves this morning. If I have to toss the pepper, I will replant in the now empty bounty. I have herbs I’ve never grown, some poppy seeds, and more tomato pods. Decisions, decisions. |
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